Timing is everything in life. For years I’ve been planning trips to Egypt and they have always been derailed for reason – unrest in the middle east, or covid, just to name two! This try (the 4th) seemed to be the charm!
It was peace in the middle east for us, until the very end as tensions started to mount, but not before we had the trip of a lifetime. We travelled from the hustle and bustle of Cairo to Abu Simbel on lake Nasser, the biggest man-made lake on Earth very far South to Aswan to board our traditional dahabiya for our trip down the Nile and then to Luxor before ending in Siwa, a desert oasis.
We experienced it all together as a perfect dynamic group. Between our egyptologist guide Wael, our (unnecessary) security detail, and our trip organizers at A&K, we were well looked after ensuring beyond a smooth journey through this ancient world. “Your wish is my command” was taken to the next level with pure Egyptian hospitality. It was a dream come true to witness the monumental Great Pyramids of Giza by helicopter and then be able to get close enough to absorb the scale. We all felt the connection to the divine beyond the historical use as tombs or at least we felt “pyramid power.” The size alone can transform you to a place of wonder… as it was built over 4500 years ago as giant tombs for mummies of the pharaohs Khufu, Khafre and Menkaure who were father, son and grandson.
All my prior planning to visit Egypt were perfect foil as I would have never been able to see the brand new Grand Egyptian Museum (GEM) that just opened its doors after 20 years in the making. For the first time in history, the entire treasure of Tutankhamun is displayed together in one place. It was such a treat to see more than 5000 objects from his boy tomb especially the jewelry. After all, he only ruled for 9 years and he died before 20 yet his tomb became the most famous archaeological discovery in history as we learned in the Valley of the Kings. One of the most poetic elements of the Museum in retrospect is its alignment with the pyramids itself as I looked and photographed them from the enormous glass walls inside.
Egypt is not simply a country– it is a civilization that has been unfolding along the banks of the Nile for more than five thousand years.
From the moment the river floods each year, bringing life to the desert, it has shaped one of the extraordinary cultures. We tug-boated with sails down the Nile in our traditional dabiabiya not so aptly named Yalla which in arabic means “let’s go” or “come on” or “hurry up and get moving.” But our 4 day journey was anything but hurried as we slowly moved down the river from South or North like thousands of years ago in this land of milk and honey. Stopping, looking and listening.
It was not a coincidence that we travelled during this time of Ramadan as it is about way more than just fasting – it is about awareness, dedication, and endurance. Hearing the calls for prayer 5 times a day were a reminder to us to slow down, reconnect with our body, and cultivate humility. We did just that as we practiced daily yoga and enjoyed massages on board. We even experienced a group mediation/reiki energy healing.
All this in between visits to sacred temples and there were many from the twin temples of Ramses II and his wife Queen Nefertari in Abu Simel to the majestic Philae temple on the island of Agilika dedicated to the goddess of purity, sexuality, nature and protection. In Kom Ombo at sunset, we toured the Ptolemaic temple dedicated to the crocodile-god Sobek. It was magical. It actually stands at the bend in the Nile where sacred crocodiles in ancient times basked in the sun on the riverbank before being mummified in a museum. We sailed to Edfu to see the extraordinary temple of Horus before arriving in Luxor East to see the Temple of Karnak built over 1000 years by generations of Pharaohs. We went on to visit the striking Temple of Luxor dedicated to the god Amun connected to Karnak via the Avenue of Sphinxes which is a thoroughfare connecting the temples that’s lined with the remnants of more than 1000 statues.
It runs for nearly 2 miles and is quite a site through the center of the city. Our last day on the Yalla Nile, we disembarked to tour the Valley of the Kings which is a vast city of the Dead where we saw magnificent tombs carved into the desert rocks, richly decorated and filled with treasures. Nearby and important to see is Hatshepsut temple rising out of the desert in a series of terraces celebrating the queen Hatshepsut who was Ancient Egypts only female Pharaoh.
Our last long drive was to honor the goddess Hathor at temple of Dendera. She enjoyed great devotion in her life as the deity of maternal and family love, beauty and music. My kind of life! The greeks associated her with aphrodite in that she is portrayed throughout with a cow head or cow ears. A lot to see and learn and hopefully retain long after I return home from this magical place.
Our final stop on this magic carpet ride of a trip was an add on intended to be a reboot in the desert before returning to our daily routines. We landed in Siwa, a desert oasis near the coast of Libya, and the first thing we saw was a military airplane and soldiers in uniform.
Feeling safe, we were greeted by 3 vehicles for the 6 of us and taken to our eco lodge built entirely from salt and mud. We immediately settled in as Mohamed the manager of Adrere Amellal for 30 years showed us around. As he did, I got the feeling that this is one of those rare places where the desert feels alive with history and myth. After all, Alexander the Great was said to have made an appearance. It’s that out of your comfort zone place where time moves differently. Time to disconnect since we had no electricity, no internet and could barely charge our phones. It seemed like a good idea at time but the world outside of here was in turmoil.
After a beautiful lunch, we toured the Peter Beard and Lee Miller museums on property and after went into town to see the fortresses and markets. The sunset was spectacular and the dinner by candlelight was romantic. I’ve never slept better in my life in my salt room.
After a good morning sunrise, we got news that Americans were being asked to leave the middle east asap. A couple immediately hired a car and driver to take them to Cairo — a 9 hour drive with check points along the way.
Our drivers turned back and the band got back together again as we were able to secure the plane back to Siwa a day earlier to connect to another plane going to Athens which was only 2 hours from Cairo and easy to get home from there. It was a waiting game, not to mention a little stressful, but it ended well and we have a story to tell.
I heard that Egypt has a way of lingering long after you leave but Siwa stole my heart. Even though we were there for a very short time, I could honestly say it was life enhancing. I have taken it home with me along with those towering painted columns of Luxor. And the stories of rulers like Tutandkhamun, Hatshepsut, and even Cleopatra VII that are still written across the landscapes etched into temples and stones. These are memories I will cherish but the most important stories are the ones we created together as a group of 6 fearless souls traveling under the endless Egyptian skis surrounded by the local welcoming spirit.
In spite of the turmoil in the Middle East, we always felt safe in Egypt. We were best of friends before the journey and now completely bonded forever as we created lasting memories through laughter, joy and knowledge. Grateful to have finally taken Egypt off my bucket list with this perfect group of traveling buddies. Here’s to us!
Get Lost 
wow! A trip of a lifetime! Glad you finally got there! Thanks for sharing! What an adventure!
Looks amazing! Glad you are home safe and sound.
Thanks for sharing what sounds like an amazing trip
xo