Tasmanian Devils

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12 devilish ladies in the bush is just like it sounds and more.  It was absolute perfection. Although we didn’t see any actual Tasmanian devils, we do know they exist in extinction since 2008 because of a facial tumor disease that has taken the population down…good to know.  Tassie, as I now affectionately refer to this isolated island off Australia’s south coast known for its vast, rugged wilderness areas protected within parks and reserves surrounded by mountains and shimmering waters from the wineries outside of Launceston

 

to the capital city of Hobart’s MONA Museum all the way to Freycinet’s “friendly beaches”!  It was a non stop party as off the grid as you can be these days.  And with no cell service comes presence.  My girls were rock stars carrying 30 pound backpacks (felt like 50) hiking 7 hours a day completely immersed in the spectacular views (specie 360) from every vantage point practicing

 

yoga in unexpected places. The iconic overland track never saw the likes of this group of “topless in tassie” bush wacking ladies. IMG_7130 The walks were long rather steep and strenuous with exposed plateaus but the trails were immaculately cared for which made for smooth hiking but don’t look up for long! Leeches, Lizards and Snakes…OH MY!

 

With an occasional Wallaby hopping by.  From peaceful meditative solo walking to grueling stairways to heaven’s wineglass bay , we were “record smashers” if there was such a thing in sport hiking.

 

Serious challenging climb from Cook’s Beach to the top of Mt Graham with views of the Hazards pink rock outcrops through eucalyptus tree forests and southern grasses.  I heard the weather in Tassie can be pretty tough so luckily I called in for 10 day perfect temps.  The huts were warm and comfy and the perfect stage set for belly laughs.

 

I don’t think I laughed that much since the last STAT trip! While 4 days at Cradle took me out of my comfort zone with my heavy pack (never want to see anything in it again), the last 3 days in Freycinet National Park and Peninsula cemented my love for this place on the Tasman Sea. In between hikes luxuriating at Quamby Estates to regroup with some fine local hospitality and massage our well worked bods was a treat before we were on the road again for some culture this time.  The Museum of Old and New (MONA) is a must see!  It’s the baby of philanthropist David Walsh who is celebrated in Hobart as a visionary.  The $75 million museum is still expanding with art installations of ancient antiques showcased next to contemporary works that are sexy (77 cunts), provocative (bit.fall), disturbing (77 cunts),  and deeply engaging (James Turell).

 

Dining and Staying on premise in the beautifully articulated artist/architectural pavilions was the way to go. And an absolutely perfect Segway as we headed to the most beautiful beaches in the world where the laughter got even louder.  Some of us fished for dinner while flirting with Captain Obvious,

 

some swam in the freezing waters while others took their tops off for the universe to ponder.  Did I mention that we were off the grid? No cell service and even limited charging capability.  This in itself created the space and the energy for this group of ladies to come together like no other.  It was magical and moving the way we interacted and bonded from the get go.  It takes my breath away thinking of our last night at appropriately named “friendly beaches” how in preparation for our thanksgiving holiday, we gave thanks for each other and everything good and bad in our life for that moment and beyond.

 

Tears were plenty for this time we shared  in this magnificent place en route back to reality.  Oh the freedom to be out of touch in an untouched world as Tasmania.

A special shout out to our youthful guides Michelle, Gemma and Andy in the Cradle mountains and Sharna, Zoe, Hannah and sweet Danny in Freycinet’s Friendly Beaches.

 

I’m sure we’ve made you laugh louder and cringe harder than any other group in your time. Your Tassie spirit, prep and cooking skills were over the top.

 

 

Dilly Dilly!  IMG_7200

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The Greek Way

IMG_0172My Ode to Greece begins here with its sapphire-blue waters, green-grassy hills with  cyprus trees, olive groves and vineyards right along side ancient ruins and charming ports filled with boats and even octopus drying in the sun.  My last visit to Greece was 40 years ago and I certainly don’t remember the beauty of this “cradle of Western civilization” that it is today.  But to be fair, I was on Junior year abroad and on a budget that only allowed me to stay in youth hostels.  So fast forward to a very different Greek holiday experience on a private chartered Yacht with 2 other couples and six in help…Anotonio, Konstantinos, Babis, Nikos, Eva, and George! IMG_0290 We couldn’t have done it without you.  Our amazing / changeable itinerary offered a little bit of everything in the Cyclades group of islands in the Aegean Sea and not enough of some things.  Hello Santorini, Goodbye Santorini was the beginning of our active journey with its world-famous sunsets which we saw, whitewashed buildings perched high on cliffs which we walked, and those spectacular panoramic vistas which we missed!

But not before a delicious lunch at Sunset by paraskevas and a refreshing swim off the boat in the cool water before sailing off to the hilly island of  IOS for some cocktail ambiance.  I adore Greek food and couldn’t get enough of those fresh salads of feta, tomato, and olives at every meal. YUM… the moussaka, souvlaki… so fresh that it didn’t feel heavy like it does in the States.

We were always on the move which I loved from anchoring in secluded coves with our water toys to docking at lesser known islands like Naxos, Paros, and Delos before arriving at the bustling paradise of Mykonos, a shopping mecca with winding, narrow streets adorned with geraniums and Bougainvillea known to the locals as Chora, which means “the town” in Greek.  It was the perfect backdrop for Ali’s birthday IMG_0223extravaganza.  And where better to celebrate than Nammos, the crazy party scene on Psarou beach where the beautiful people congregate to dance on tables and drink to oblivion. When in Greece….

And then there were 4.

Tracy and Glenn had to leave early but not before making incredible memories with Ali and David and Paul and I.  It was the perfect storm complete with the perfect red wine splatter on our charter’s perfect white carpet.  Always leaving our mark with no ruffled feathers. And true to form,  the word that everyone uses to describe Greek culture is Philovenia which is about warmth and kindness to strangers.  We certainly experienced all of this on the islands and truly felt the generosity of spirit that is surprising to some but utterly expected in Greek culture.  Who takes full bottles of wine home after dinner?

Slide1Our last stop on our Greek Island hopping adventure complete with dramatic beach landscapes, rustic charming architecture with an international vibe was the rich history of Hydra combined with the close proximity of Athens.  The port of Hydra was a small horseshoe and after walking around the perimeter, it felt like a labyrinth of steep steps and slender streets.  The best part of this place was the fact there were no cars or even bicycles to get around but donkeys were aplenty waiting patiently to carry suitcases or even groceries up to the hotels. It was such a cute little island complete with somewhat sophisticated  art galleries and shows.  In fact, Kara Walker was having a show at the slaughterhouse/ Deste project space on a towering cliffside owned by billionaire art collector Dakis.  I tried to go but they were closed for an afternoon siesta. Oh those Europeons!  At dinner the night before on the waterfront, our server told us that Leonard Cohen used to eat there nightly when he was in town as he lived there on and off since the 1960’s. I’m thinking that this place would have inspired him to write Hallelujah.  Fabulous friends in paradise combined with fantastic food and lusious libations in luxury accomadations makes me want to sing Hallelujah.  Greece beckons me to return again with its laid-back, simple way of life and rich history.  See ya next year.IMG_0299

 

 

 

 

Blackberry Farm

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http://www.calm was the perfect domain from the moment we showed up at the airport to hours and hours of delays for our short flight to Tennessee in celebration of our Wende’s Wild “birthday” Weekend.  The mood was always upbeat no matter how many times they changed the departure time…as long as the bar was open and the food was free.

Ten years ago, Wende had it all as we celebrated “40” in Mallorca.  And we still have it all but what a difference a decade makes.

Surrounded by sweeping mountain vistas and deep green forests on 4,200 acres,  “the Berry” with its genuine Southern hospitality,  is the scene of the love festival we created for our Wende.  Yes, this place brews a rare and powerful connection with nature in the pastoral foothills of the great smokey mountains of Tennessee. But this incredibly powerful group of 15 had enough female energy to create their own smokin’ hot blend of relaxation and rejuvenation.  We laughed til we cried every day all day as we managed to eat, drink and be merry.  Loud and happy is a good thing but not for some of the guests at “the berry”.  Dancing on tables is our norm but musical chairs? And a poolside ruckus over lounge chairs?

There’s a first for everything on a STAT trip. All in good fun was our mantra as we practiced yoga and even hit the hiking trails.

Spa time was essential with this bevy of beauties because who knew this was going to be one big slumber party complete with damn sexy lingerie showcasing and performing gyrating midnight yoga poses.

I don’t think we laughed hard enough and I don’t know where we are going to celebrate the next decade but you can be sure it’s going to be FUF (fun,undeniably,fabulous)…because our very own tarot card reader said so! She has assured us all that the spirit of Wende will live in our hearts forever and we will reflect upon this weekend with great admiration for the friends and memories we created together.

Everybody has a story and we all wear different hats and/or masks on the road we call life.  But we all came together to celebrate a very special lady.  Everyone knows its Wende! And Wende has stormy eyes that flash at the sound of lies. And Wende has wings to fly. Above the clouds…Above the clouds!IMG_0106

Marfa

 

Here We Are Here.  The small town in the desert that Donald Judd put on the map in the middle of Nowhere is the scene of Marfalous Marge’s celebration of Life.  Big birthdays are just that but when you invite 18 front and center girlfriends (city slickers) to help you gently transition into old age on a ranch in Texas with little or no cell service, magic happens.  But the magic had already begun to happen long ago when we manifested this journey to create meaning and meaningful experiences in this life with effort and grace. The rich in history, Cibolo Creek Ranch, just outside the bustling city of Marfa with one single traffic light, which always blinks yellow, was the perfect backdrop nestled between 30,000 sprawling acres of land surrounded by the Chinati and Cienega Mountains.  The renovated 19th Century adobe forts never lost its integrity while adding modern comforts to our lakeside suites.  Loved that there were no TV’s, only ATV’s!

Our morning yoga practice was as inspiring as the land itself.  18 mats layered the front of the fort as the sun rose above the big Texas sky while we practiced our downward dogs and opened up our hearts to new and exciting possibilities.  For Zach, our very own man of mystery “do I look like a hiking guide?”, it was an opportunity of a lifetime for him to accompany this bevy of beauties up to  Monte Rosa, the highest perch on the ranch with spectacular views of the Big Bend, the Fort and the “dry” Cibolo Creek all in good preparation for our birthday girl’s opening talking stick ceremony.  Gratitude that filled the friendship circle and bonded this group together forever is how we perceived and intellectualized our next day in the town of Marfa. We were “very busy” as MPK would say as most of the group never heard of Judd, the Chinati foundation and how the town of Marfa has become synonymous with his name.

Like everyone who actually makes the pilgrimage to Marfa, we came away with a transformed understanding of Donald Judd, the foremost American minimalist sculptors. Judd rethought what a work of art could be by using industrial materials (steel, aluminum and concrete) produced with manufacturing methods and displayed on the floor.  And to experience it in a specific site in West Marfa, Texas…far from the maddening crowd…was as important as the artwork itself.  “It’s hard to get here, but everyone’s welcome” seems to be the Marfa Mantra.  And no one says it better than the somewhat of a local hero owner of the famous Food Shark, literally a food truck on the outskirts of town, where we dodged the long lines to indulge in a very local lunch consisting of none other than Marfalafels.  Getting the lay of land yet?  Marfamania. Marfalicious. Marfa or bust. We even managed to make it to cocktail hour at the newest Marfa hotspot, the St George hotel.  Meanwhile back at the ranch where the deer and the buffalo roam and where the days are long and the nights are starry, we all gathered by the campfire breaking out in song while talking about life, death, transcendence and self-reflection.  No shallowness with a deep end in this group.

We not only rallied for target shooting (some spectators)  but we saddled up for a late afternoon/sunset trial ride up to the mesa (mustaches included) for our last hurrah.  IMG_0141Marfa is the absolute opposite of NYC, limited in ways we are accustomed to but the quality of the landscape, the light, the clouds, the moon, the stars is extraordinary.  I will miss the horizon. The peacefulness.  But more importantly, I will miss this group of extraordinary women that came together as “select” group to assure Marfalous Marge that she doesn’t look her age…and other fairy tales.  Let’s keep this Marfaness going and start watching the  new series “I love Dick” for new material in preparation for our reunion tour closer to home.

Everyone wears many masks in their lives but for these 4 days, we took off layers of masks and revealed ourselves to this place. Marfa. Good Night Dick.

 

Vietnam

Good Morning Vietnam.

Just finished The Things They Carried by Tim O’Brien, a collection of linked short stories about a platoon of American soldiers in the Vietnam War and was reminiscing about my recent family trip tagging along with the Milch’s this past Christmas holiday.  Forty years after the carnage and destruction of an epoch-difining conflict the Vietnamese call the American War, Vietnam is resolutely a nation and not a war. Self confident and fast-developing, its allure is easy to appreciate as they are a happy people.  In fact, the best part of the country is the people’s attitude and “just being happy enough”.  It explains how they survived and it completely makes sense.  Gitte, our yoga instructor for the week exemplified this perfectly and created many giggles and memories for our family as he began and ended each class with his mantra…Be Happy, Do Yoga. As a practicing yogi for over 30 years, I was thrilled with starting and ending my days with him.

Unforgettable experiences are everywhere in this country but we were only there for an extended week so most of our time was spent at the Nam Hai in Hoi An.  An absolutely gorgeous slice of heaven situated smack in the middle of one of the top rated beaches in the world.  As the rain rolled over the beach on a daily basis, the spirit of just going with it was our mantra as we discovered all there was to do.

We rode bikes in the fields of marshy grass, we went to UNESCO world heritage places nearby, and we had the best body treatments in the most magnificent setting complete img_4971with singing bowl therapy tuned to the harmonic intonation of nature.   But the single best was the food… the big winner in this country.  It’s a culinary super power according to Anthony Bourdain as the food is that good.

The subtle flavors are outstanding in its diversity as we learned one afternoon in our cooking class.  I’ve even tried the Banh Mi back in Aspen at the old  Johnny Mcquire’s space but it didn’t come close to one we had in Hoi An.

Our last 2 days were spent in Sensory overload in Saigon also known as Ho Chi Minh City in the South famous for the pivotal role it played in the War.

Of course, we engaged at the war museum but the most interesting day was boating over to the Chu Chi tunnels which is part of massive war museum that offers a sneak-peek at the underground life to the soldiers back in 1948.  And after reading the things they carried, I can visualize and imagine what it was like for the soldiers to eat, sleep, work, and cook as the conflict raged above.  Talking about conflict or maybe crazy,  we totally ventured out of the box on our after dark Vespa tour weaving in and around Saigon. img_8077 If you’ve ever seen pictures of the way the Vietnamese drive or even cross the street, you would concur we were crazy for hopping on the back of a vespa for 5 hours going place to place eating, drinking, bar hopping, music hunting and more.  But it was the most fun we all had without Lesley who opted out!   And finally, New Year’s Eve in Saigon was like being the middle of Times Square in NYC.  Who does that?  Tourists! And that’s just what we were enjoying the scenery and trying to stay up past midnight.

Welcome 2017!  Here’s to an abundance of new adventures to come.  Be Happy. Do Yoga. I miss my Gitte. Thanks for the memories.

Stunning Croatia

fullsizerender  14 ladies, 2 guides and Tonchi the yogi do Croatia for a week…

 Sounds like a good story and it certainly didn’t disappoint thanks to our very own E.L. James on board. But that’s another story.  Pomalo describes and captures the essence of the mentality and lifestyle of this Dalmatia coast on the Adriatic Sea, a place far from the madding crowds. Between the magnificent views of the sapphire waters  encompassing over 1100 islands paired with the local culture and gastronomy of the area, we took advantage of everything this part of the world has to offer.  Our hikes took us from the historic emperor’s palace in Split to the islands of Brac, Hvar, Korcula, and Peljesac before reaching the pearl of the Adriatic, Dubrovnik.  And that’s just the logistics… Continue reading